Raglans on the Brain

I really got into the weeds yesterday. I went through my pattern library and pulled out all the patterns with raglan-style seamlines. There was this one:

And this one:

Both of these were purchased when Hobby Lobby put their New Look patterns on sale for $0.99 apiece.

I thought I might frankenpattern these two together—I like the dress version in 6298 but I really prefer turtlenecks in the winter. The first order of business was to press the wrinkles out of each pattern. I usually cut the pattern pieces apart to make it easier to work with them.

At one point, my cutting table looked like this:

Before I frankenpattern anything, I always check sizing. Even within one brand, sizing can vary; I was one size in the N6298 pattern and a different size in the N6469 pattern. I also look at each pattern piece to see how it was drafted. Part of the reason I have a sleeve laid out in the photo above is because both New Look patterns had sleeves with a dart at the shoulder.

I have a theory that the Big 4/7 pattern companies sometimes use the same draft for a knit that was already developed for a woven. In my opinion, that is sheer laziness. I have run into more than one pattern that was far more complicated than it needed to be because it used a technique for a woven fabric that wasn’t really appropriate for a knit fabric. These sleeves do not need shoulder darts. That white pattern piece on top of the N6469 sleeve pattern is the Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater sleeve. Do you see a shoulder dart in that pattern piece? Nope, neither do I. I have made five Toaster Sweaters and not one of them needed a shoulder dart in the sleeve.

Frankenpatterning—or working with a new pattern, in general—always includes a check of the Sewing Pattern Review website. Numerous reviews of New Look 6298 indicated that the sleeves were way too large and that the fit was overly generous, both of which will happen if you swap a knit for a woven in a pattern.

New Look 6469 also included a zipper at the back neck—again, not really necessary. (Some SPR reviewers noted they left it out.) The neckline of N6469 is exactly the same as the neckline of the Toaster Sweater and I just pull the Toaster Sweater over my head. I’m not afraid of zippers, but neither am I going to put a zipper into a knit if I don’t have to.

I already have the Toaster Sweater pattern and I love the way it fits. I realized I could frankenpattern the top half of the Toaster Sweater with the bottom half of both New Look patterns and call it good. And then it hit me that I don’t need to make a raglan swing dress; I could make a raglan swing top. 💡

At that point, I had to get out the Wexford Swing Top pattern to determine how much to shorten the New Look 6469 pattern pieces. Eventually, I distilled everything down to four pattern pieces—front, back, sleeve, and neckband—for a raglan swing top.

This will get run up as a muslin today if I have time. I will also frankenpattern New Look 6298, which might look nice in a ponte.

*****

If the schedule permits, I am giving myself an all-day private lesson with Ryliss Bod at the Sewing and Design School in Tacoma for my birthday when I am in Washington State for Thanksgiving. I’ve done this twice before and it has been completely worth it. I pulled out my trouser muslin from Kenneth King’s class two years ago. I would like to have Ryliss help me turn that into a formal trouser pattern with a waistband and front zipper fly.