Setting in Sleeves

I took in the On Repeat top by 1/2" at each side—changing the 3/8" seam allowance to a 5/8" seam allowance—and I like the fit much better. I will go down a size next time. It seems odd to me that the front pattern pieces of the Scout Tee, the Cadence/Burda mashup, and the On Repeat top were similar in size and shape but the On Repeat top ended up needing to be taken in. (All have 3/8" seam allowances.) I am still puzzling that out.

In any case, I wore the top yesterday. It will stay in the rotation.

And this is how I do my sleeves. I begin by matching the notch at the top of the cap with the shoulder seam and pinning it in place. I also pin the bases of the cap to the bases of the armscye:

That clip is to identify the back of the sleeve cap. I do snip in the single and double notches, but the clip is a more visible reminder.

Then I pin the back of the sleeve cap into the armscye.

The back usually goes in easily as the curve of the sleeve cap and the curve of the armscye are both shallower there and match up well. I also try to make my pins “bite” along the stitching line.

The front requires a bit more finesse because this is where the excess of the cap is being gathered into the tighter curve of the armscye. I usually begin by matching notches and pinning there, first, then going back and doing the rest of the cap. Basically, I am taking up small chunks of the cap as I work. I unpin and move fabric and re-pin until I am happy with it.

The cap side of the seam goes against the feed dogs, which will ease in the extra fabric as I sew. I place my index finger along the stitching line to feel for any pleats or extra fabric and work them out as I go.

When I’ve sewn the seam and verified that there are no pleats or puckers, I finish the seam on the serger and press it toward the sleeve. And this is another reason to have larger seam allowances in garments: When I have to finish a seam on the serger, it helps to be able to cut off a bit of the seam allowance for a neater edge.

That’s it. So much easier (for me) than setting in a sleeve the traditional way.

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Salsa production is on the schedule for next week. I’ll can pumpkin/squash, too, if I am motivated enough. I might as well get it all done so I can put the canning supplies away. It’s time to sew.